Across the Great Divide - Boyaca to Bogota

After the heady and euphoric days in the high nevado, it was time to get back in the saddle and ride over the remote Eastern Cordilerra and into the high sabana (plain)of Bogota, the cultural and historical heartland of Colombia. It was more than a geographical divide as I passed by the small dairy farms with campesinos dressed in ruanas (ponchos) and then later rode by the large fincas and haciendas of the landed aristocracy, driving around in 4WDs. This gulf is reflected in the politics of Colombia as I witnessed on my arrival in Bogota. It was a curious journey.

Beasts of Burden
In the high sierra horses and mules are used by the campesinos to transport goods to markets, as this farmer coming into the village of El Cocuy.



Leaving Tunja, I couldn´t help but compare my sturdy stead to the beast tied up to the post. In Colombia they call the bicycle el caballito del acero or the little iron horse, reminiscent of the Tibetan jota.


It was a huge climb from the dry Chicamocha valley (900m) to the high paramo above Belen, reaching an altitude of 3420m. Then onto the hot springs of Paipa to soak tired limbs and bum. Back on a busy highway now after days in the sparsely populated sierra but arriving in Tunja was just rewards. It´s been my favourite town so far, a nice mix of colonial and modern. This is the main plaza with the ubiquitous statue of Simon Bolivar the Liberator. He fought his major battle against the Spanish just outside Tunja.


In Tunja I found a nice family-run hotel,the Hotel Saboy. This massive bedroom cost me 10,000 pesos or A$6 a night.


Compared to this litle box in Zipaquira which set me back 15,000 pesos!


From Tunja I rode down to Villa de Leiva, a oolonial town untouched by modernisation, but after Tunja it lacked vitality- all whitewashed facades. But there was a very interesting fossil museum in the hills- dinosaurs and amonites. Further down the road, Raquira with pastel-coloured shops and houses. Here is the small church in the plaza before an incredible thunderstorm.



The Return of the Chaser
A very strange day. Leaving Raquira on a rocky steep path I was followed by children on the way to school. Laughing and teasing me, they pursued el Australiano until they reached the school at the top of a hill. Then it was the pesky dogs turn. Passing by smoking kilns and stacked terracotta pots (Raquira is famous for pottery) every litle house owned a mutt or two. They would see the bike and chase me up the road (still climbing on the stony jeep track). Unlike the Tibetan mastiffs they either gave up the pursuit or I threw rocks at them, which sent them whimpering home.
Over the pass and into a wide valley of small dairy farms. Evocative smells of childhood on a farm in NW Tasmania - mud and diesel, mingled with warm cow shit and the fresh scent of wet eucalypts (common throughout Colombia). Enjoying a leisurely ride on a muddy gravel road when I was greeted by this over-friendly horse. It reared up and tried to knock me off the bike so off I scarpered down the road with this frisky horse in hot pursuit. He seemed to enjoy this game but he would catch up to me and try to nudge me off the bike. Did he want a ride? Was he sexually excited by el cabellito del acero? Or was it just another day at the races? It went on for 6kms until I arrived at a road junction. An old woman inquired "Is it your horse?". I convinced her it wasn´t so she sent her daughter to escort the wild beast back to the finca where he belonged. What´s up next? I guess I´ll be chased by pigs in Ecuador and llamas in Peru.

The fun hadn´t finished yet. Back on the autopista (highway) with the fumes and noise of trucks and buses. Climbed the pass leading to the plain of Bogota and just I reached 3000m, the heavens opened up with hail, thunder and sheet lightning. No escape so I hurtled down to Zipaquira 30 kms away, followed by this impatient and erratic storm. 2 hours later, a hot shower and some beers. What a day!

The Great Political Divide posters- anti-FARC demo Feb 4


Left wing anti-Uribe rally March 6


I cycled into the centre of Bogota and ran into the middle of this large rally. Many people holding photos of the disappearred and murdered by paramilitaries. Many different groups took part- trade unions, students, relatives of the victims, indigenous groups etc. It became violent at the Plaza de Bolivar when radicals clashed with the military.












Colombian beauty getting ready for a pageant


Bike path in Bogota. The city has built these shared paths everywhere. Every Sunday 100s of kms of roads are closed to traffic and the cyclists, joggers and walkers take over the streets. Imagine this happening in Australia.....a car-addicted society? Anyway, I`m joining the throngs today (Sunday March 9) as I cycle out of town, heading south.

From the Caribbean to the Andes

I had planned to start the cycle ride from Punta Gallinas, the northernmost point of the continent but, due to lack of time and logistic problems, I decided to begin from Santa Marta. As it´s the oldest town in Colombia and situated at 11 degrees 15´ North, it seemed a good place as any to embark on the journey south.
Here is my bike loaded up on the seafront at Santa Marta at 6am on Day 1. Beyond is the steely blue Caribbean Sea.

On the first day heading south I stopped at Aracataca, the birthplace of Gabriel Garcia Marquez and the inspiration for the fictional town of Macondo. His portrait graces the walls of the local billiard hall.

The Highway to Hell
After a while the highway up the Magdalena river became the worst road I´d ever ridden on - the Highway to Hell. A straight flat boring paved road with columns of long semi-trailers and speeding buses and a scorching tropical sun without shade. I perservered for so long until I was pushed off the road twice by overtaking trucks. I was listening to my MP3 player to drown out the din from constant traffic and one ominous song put the shivers up me- Thom Yorke´s ´Black Swan´

People get crushed like biscuit crumbs and lay down in the bitumen.

As I didn´t want to end up as Arnotts Shredded Petemeal, I accepted a lift from a truck-driver who took me 200kms down the road to the foothills of the Andes. I was cheating a bit but more like cheating death.
Arrived late in the evening in Bucaramanga the following day and got lost in the dark alleyways with rain pissing down. At least it was cool at 1000m ASL.

The next 3 days of riding were blissful after the hot and hectic ride on the highway. I took the backroads east of Bucaramanga, mostly steep, winding gravel roads, with very little traffic. And the scenery was superb - small villages nestled in the folds of valleys and, higher up, wet verdant cloud forests. There were many reminders of tragic road accidents on these dangerous roads. Here are three crosses where members of the same family went over a sheer cliff. Check out the road in the distant, snaking its way up to a pass.



This was a typical scene on the road to Malaga. Forest and farmland surrounding a little village called Pangote, with the ubiquitous church steeple.


The air was fresh and cool as I rode over the Eastern Cordillera. The roads were of much steeper gradients than those of Tibet, sometimes climbing 100metres in just 1.5 kms. But with the birdsong and delightful landscape, it was worth the sweat and toil up the hills. In the five days of riding from Bucaramanga to Belen (Boyaca) I climbed over 7000 metres in elevation, an average of 1400m a day. Now I can see why Colombia has produced so many strong hill climbers in the Tour de France. Closer to the bigger towns it´s common to see cyclists out for a climb, individuals as well as large groups.

From the rolling green hills of Malaga, the paved road descended rapidly to the dry dusty cacti-punctured valley of the Chicamocha valley. I left the bike here in Capitanejo and took a short bus ride up to Guican for the trek around the Cordillera del Cocuy.

Sierra Nevada de Cocuy

I've just returned from a fabulous 5 day trek around the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. A high altitude trek, all above 4000m with 8 passes over 4300m. Very spectacular peaks, amazing flora and wonderful weather. I didn´t see anyone for the 5 days, my own 'Cien Horas de la Soledad' - a unique moment to be up there alone and ranks up there with my other solo treks in the Ruwenzoris or 'Mountains of the Moon' (East Africa) 1990 and Kangshung/Karma valleys(Tibetan Himalaya)2005.
Hope you like the images....

















A self-portrait with bemused and silly smile inside the tent. Looking very grizzly, sun-dried and tired.


Climate Change in the Andes - A Sad Note
El Paso del Castillo 4600m. In the 1990´s this pass was blocked by a large glacier, running down to this lake. Global warming has now reduced this glacier to a small cap on the peak, a pattern repeated in all the equatorial zones of the world. A sad indictment on our Pursuit of Crappiness.

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is the highest coastal range in the world and, although it isn't part of the Andean chain, a visit to the fringe of the sierra was a fantastic introduction to las montañas del Sudamerica. This view was from a crest at 2700m looking south to the main range. Pico de Christobal Colon sits in the centre at 5775m, Colombia's highest peak. It's quite a dangerous area to visit but it would be a great expedition to climb from the south into the range - many alpine lakes and unusual endemic vegetation.




Birds of Paradise
The birdlife was the highlight of my 2 days in the cloud forest of the Sierra Nevada. These photos of a pair of Quetzales dorados (Spanish) or White-tipped quetzals, were taken at 2300m in mixed pine, podocarpus & tagua forest. These birds are endemic to this area, so it was a unique moment watching these two flamboyant birds. Other birds seen in my brief visit- toucans (incl. a cute Emerald toucanet), trogons, a Crimson-crested woodpecker (or the Spanish nom de plumage - Carpinterio mariscal), 3 species of hummingbirds, incl. one endemic to Sierra Nevada, loads of parrots and partakeets squawking and, from the ridgetop at 3000m, an errant Andean condor. Unfortuantely too excited, preoccupied and slow-witted to take more photos of 'Los Aves de El Dorado'.


The flora was also an unexpected delight. Amazing display of bromeliads, some covering hillsides like the giant lobelias of Central Africa or as epiphytes sprouting out of clusters in trees.




Here are two unusual trumpet flowers.




Sphagnum moss mosaic falling down a steep bank of rock and water - an interesting specimen.

A Tale of Three Cities

I arrived on the South American continent as weary and jaded as a sailor on the Santa Maria. After 46 hours crossing the Pacific, the US and the Caribbean, I arrived in Barranquilla a bit worse for wear. The worst part of the flights were the 16 hours in those vacuums of emptiness - 4 nondescript airports, Sydney, Taipei, LA and Miami.

Barranquilla was also in slumber mode, shaking off a massive hangover from the famous Carnivale. It took me a while to get get my head and body into the frenzy of the Caribbean. This is a river port, sitting on the Magdalena river and it has this rough nature and wild and exuberant atomsphere. I forgot to take a photo of the hotel I stayed in, the Costa Caribe, an important detail for my trip from north to south.

Cartagena in the early morning
Cartagena is an impressive sight with its massive forts and walls surrounding a cloistered city of fine colonial architecture. A much more genteel atmosphere than Barranquilla yet, instead of a unrestrained living culture, it has the appearance of a preserved relic. The old city is sandwiched between a tacky multi-storey Gold Coast-style resort and an ugly urban sprawl. Perhaps the enclosure not only kept out intruders in the past but has also shielded the modern ugliness from the contemporary inhabitants of the walled city.


I had a 'training ride' from Barranquilla to Santa Marta and, apart from the heat and traffic, I really enjoyed the trip. Some warnings of the dangers ahead - the road was littered with dessicated snake skins (even a live python basking in the sun) and the ubiquitous tombstone memorials of past accident victims. On my left was the rolling Caribbean Sea and on the right a large expanse of inland water and wetlands. This is the Cienaga de Santa Marta - an important habitat for water birds, esp. herons.

Santa Maria was a nice surprise - a hybrid of the other two cities. Cobbled narrow streets and fine colonial buildings but with an intimate and lively centre. From the seaside promenade a lovely view out to the Caribbean Sea.

La Bahia de Santa Marta

LA FAMILIA CARIBE
I only spent a short time in these cities but their characters were so distinct I pictured them as members of a family in a Marquezian world.
Cartagena is the culturally refined and rather snobbish aunt who has been tarted up with quite a lot of make-up. As a conservative, she doesn't like to go out much and would rather stay confined behind the walls of her historic home.
Barranquilla is the wild extroverted youth, slightly delinquent and unkempt and often rowdy. He enjoys the chaotic and hedonistic lifestyle, and loves a party, especially around February.
Santa Marta is the oldest of the three, the patriarch and provincial gentleman. A modest man who was once a prominent businessman but now in his twilight years. Each evening he likes to sit on the promenade, looking out at the Caribe and sipping a cerveza.

MTB Rough Road Touring 2001-7

Cannondale MTB history - Central Australia 2002 Eastern Tibet 2003 & 2005 Burma 2004

I liked the lightness of the Cannondale aluminium frame and the headshock suspension but after 2 rugged and brutal trips in Tibet it was showing lots of wear (worn rear dropouts and rack bolt holes). Partly due to the 50 kgs I loaded on the rear wheel. The BOB Yak trailer proved invaluable in Tibet- with a backpack I could get off the road and go exploring in the mountains.


Icicles and Bicycle 2005. This photo was taken just below Tro La at 4965m climbing to the pass (Kham Tibet). No BOB trailer- Judy took it with her on the back of a truck over the pass.


..and down the other side. Descending roads like this really put the strain on the bike (climbing was harder on the body). Descents from 5000-3000 meteres asl were common. Lots of ice and mud - wearing on brake pads and rims.


Velosmith 'Jota' history 2006 Trans-Himalayan (Yunnan-Kathmandu) 2007 Central Australia . A sturdy beast. Chromoly frame - tougher and more reliable than the Cannondale. Rohloff hub - less gear maintenance. A revolution for MTB touring. Everyone wants to have a go!


2006 This is the infamous Gama La en route to Lhasa. 77 switchbacks, only 7 shown. A descent of 2000m down to the dusty Salween canyon - punishing for the bike with BOB & 50 kgs.


At around 4000m camping in a snowstorm on the triple passes between Zhongdian & Deqen, Yunnan. Woke up to an icy white world - and poor old Jota buried under snow and encrusted with ice.


Early morning cycle shadows on the Tibetan plateau at 4200m. Between Shegar-Tingri heading towards Pang La and Everest base camp. A typical dirt road on the high plateau.



2007 Painted Desert, South Australia, between Coober Pedy & Oodnadatta. Magical landscape. Great cycling with old friends from Alice Springs to Port Augusta.



2007 Old Andado Road Simpson Desert NT. Riding between the sand dunes was difficult going. Corrugations and deep sand. BOB had a hard time of it..and so did we. Pushed the bike and trailer for over 10kms. Carrying 15 litres of water and 8 days of food. Wild and beautiful scenery.

Bike and Gear

I cycled solo across Tibet in 2006 on this bike and this photo was taken at Everest base camp at 5250m. Both bike and body survived a gruelling ride of +3000kms, 20 mountain passes over 4500m and 65 days on the saddle. This is the bike I'll be riding down the Andes as it's proved to be a tough workhorse (in fact the Tibetans called it jota = ' iron horse').

On all my previous rides I've towed the BOB Yak trailer but for this trip I've decided to go with the traditional touring style of front and rear panniers for various reasons.
#1 The generous volume of the BOB encourages me to load up more gear than necessary.
#2 With suspension forks and no weight on the front wheel, the bike tends to shift sideways, particularly on rough descents. This happens when pushing with the BOB too.
#3 The BOB doesn't like the soft sand of desert areas (although Tibet was OK).
#4 Lastly it's a real hassle transporting the BOB, especially by air.

On my rides in Tibet and the deserts of outback Australia I've tried and tested a lot of gear. Here are the specifications and details of the bike as well as an inventory of the equipment I'll be taking with me down the Andes. This is probably only interesting for cycling enthusiasts and gear freaks.

BIKE
Frame: Custom-built chromoly frame. Reynolds 631 tubing.
Built by Tim Stredwick at Mountain River, Tasmania. Tim also assembled the complete bike.

Gears: Rohloff 14-speed internal gearing

Wheels: Velocity cliffhanger rims (built in Queensland)

Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon XR folding tyres 2.0 & 2.5 (The ultimate tyre for rough road touring) + 1 spare

Front Suspension Forks: Rockshox Recon 351 spring coil

Racks:rear-Tubus 'Cargo'/ front-Old Man Mountain 'Cold Springs' Handlebar bag- Serratus (Canada)

Pedals: Shimano SPD540 Brakes: Shimano Deore

Cranks: Sugino XD600 Chainring: Specialties AT 38t

Saddle: Terry Liberator Gel (Bolivar would be proud!)

Miscellaneous: Aireal headset. Ritchey seat post & stem. Pro Bike trekker bars handlebar tape. Echowell W2 wireless bike computer. Zefal pump & water bottles. Various tools and spares.


GEAR
Panniers:Ortlieb Classic Packer(rear) Classic Back Roller(front)

Tent: Macpac Minaret (military green - good camouflage).
Thanks Rob!

Clothing: Various thermal clothing, wet weather gear, cycling pants & tops, down jacket, fleece pants & hat, gloves. (Macpac, Kathmandu & Mountain Designs)

Sleeping Bag: Macpac Latitude 700LP

Backpack: Macpac Torre (collapsible, folded on front rack - for trekking)

Stove: MSR Whisperlite

GPS: Garmin GPSMap60C

Cameras Panasonic Lumix TZ3

Acknowledgements
This is a self-supporting trip without official sponsors. I haven't used any sponsors in my earlier expeditions either as I like to personally choose the gear that can handle the tough conditions. If the gear is reliable, it will speak for itself. After many years of travelling in harsh and remote areas I go for the brands and products which I've used and have stood the test of time and grime.

There is however one exception to sponsorship. Velocity Wheels in Queensland kindly provided me with a new set of rims recently. I was extremely pleased with the Cliffhangers which got me across Tibet and through the outback with over 50 kgs on the rear wheel.
NB Postscript: Unfortunately both Velocity rims cracked along the braking surfaces (In Peru 2008). There seems to be some design or material weakness in these rims and I would avoid using them on long expeditions. Judy's Velocity Aeroheat rear rim also cracked (Argentina 2009) and other friends have had the same problem. Same rims, same problem! Make up your own mind on this.

Tim Stredwick (Velosmith) has been very helpful in giving on-the road advice and good back-up service on my return home to Tasmania. See link

Two companies sold me gear at wholesale prices - Macpac (sleeping bag) & Old Man Mountain (front rack). I'm grateful for their generosity.
Postscript: Very happy with the OMM racks- sturdy and rigid!

I can recommend Wayne at The Touring Store for Ortlieb panniers and Tubus racks. Great service, cheap prices and prompt delivery. See link

A local Hobart cycling shop Cyclingo has given me generous discounts on bike parts & accessories. See link

South America Pre-visited

This is not my first trip to South America. In 1983-84 I spent 10 months backpacking, mostly on my own, from Mexico to Bolivia and I was spellbound by the magic and mayhem of this continent. It was like discovering a New World. I knew I would return and in July 1993, Judy & I landed in Santiago, Chile for an 7-month journey from the land of the Incas to the icy wilderness of Navarino Island, beyond Tierra del Fuego. I've posted some photos from those earlier explorations in Peru, Bolivia and Chile. Click on the collages to enlarge

Why do I keep returning here? I've always been fascinated by this continent. From an early age I read voraciously about the pre-Columbian civilisations, lost and forgotten Amazonian tribes, tales of insatiable, mad European explorers, and later the rich literature of Neruda, Marquez and others. I studied Latin American studies at LaTrobe University in 1983 but in impatience and haste, cut it short to see and taste the real thing. What's the attraction? It may be the strong Gondwanan link with my home, Tasmania. Or perhaps it's just the thirst for something new, another view over the next pass, or as Kapuscinski would say, a symptom of 'the contagion of travel' to unknown destinations.......

BOLIVIA 1993

Photos from Apolobamba & Uyuni regions

PERU 1993

Photos from Cuzco Vilcanota & Amazonian regions

CHILEAN PATAGONIA

Photos from Southern Chile